Oh Kolkata!

Kolkata is an enigma for outsiders. It can charm you as well as shock you. You may like it, you may hate it, but you cannot ignore it. Kolkata was envisaged and built on the lines of a grand European capital. It is a city of imposing Victorian-style structures as well as abject slums. It is a city of sharp contrasts and contradictions.

The city’s former name, Calcutta, is an Anglicized version of the Bengali name Kalikata. According to some, Kalikata is derived from the Bengali word Kalikshetra, meaning “Ground of the goddess Kali.”

If you ask my wife Uma which is the best city in our country, her reply is always Kolkata. She has fond memories of this city where her Kamla Masi and Devender Uncle lived along with their three sons and daughter. She spent some of the best moments of her childhood and teenage years with them during her school holidays. Raj, the eldest of the siblings, and Uma were not only cousins but the best of buddies. Memories of your younger days always stay with you. As a matter of fact, this period of life represents feelings of connection and positive experiences. Believe me, nothing is as nostalgic as remembering your childhood. It is one special chapter of life that stands out in every soul. After our marriage, Uma always longed to visit the City of Joy, but somehow or the other, this trip never materialized.

Raj is married and blessed with two sons, both married. Recently, Raj and his wife Neelu visited us in Delhi. Both pleaded that we should visit Kolkata to escape the treacherous winters of Delhi. They had been calling us from Kolkata, stressing the same point. Raj and Neelu had also visited us when we were in Kathmandu on posting. As the saying goes, if you desire something strongly with all your heart, the entire universe conspires to help you. It happened like this: Uma and I were planning a trip to Coonoor near Ooty. We were to stay at a Neemrana property for a week and also visit Ooty.

Before booking air tickets, I asked Uma casually, "Given a choice, where would you like to go?" This trip was part of Uma’s 75th birthday celebrations. Without blinking an eyelid, her reply was, "Kolkata." "Are you sure?" I asked. She nodded in the affirmative. "OK then, we are going to Kolkata."

Uma told Raj about our planned visit. He was elated. "Didi," he said, "do not think twice. Book your air tickets and let me know your flight number. Leave the rest to me." "OK, Raj," said Uma, "let us have your home address." "Why do you need my address? I shall be at the airport to receive you." True to his word, Raj received us at the airport, touched our feet, and escorted us to the cab. We spotted yellow cabs as well as a tram en route to Raj and Neelu’s home, both representing the old face of Kolkata. Raj has always been respectful towards his elders.

I am 81, and Uma is 75. Raj is 71, but he still touched our feet, seeking blessings. His wife Neelu is the same. She also touched our feet as a mark of respect. The next morning, both again touched our feet, saying good morning. I requested them politely to stop this practice. "Let us be more like friends," I said. Raj hugged me, saying, "We respect your decision."

For a crowded metropolis like Kolkata, the location of Raj and Neelu’s residence is par excellence.

It is a modest two-bedroom apartment with a waterbody on one side with lush green flora and fauna. From the window of our bedroom, we could spot fish in the pond as well as ducks floating around. We could also see various species of birds flying over the waterbody and then resting on tree branches. On the other side of the flat is a charming, manicured garden. Locals say the garden is a gift to the people of the locality by the present Chief Minister of West Bengal, Mamata Banerjee, who was a Member of Parliament at that time. The garden is near a college, and you can spot boys and girls from the institution sitting in different corners of it. Towards the end of January, the garden was in full bloom with flowers of different colors swaying in the air.

Raj and Neelu have their own house in Meena Apartments, situated right on the corner of Prince Anwar Shah Road next to a traffic light. Meena Apartments are near South City, a sprawling location of multi-story towers. Getting transport is easy as all taxis and three-wheelers stop at the traffic light. Raj and his two brothers, Vijay and Sunil, belong to a business family and run their ancestral shop on Princep Street, known as Devinder Hoses & Seals, established by their late father.

Both Vijay and Sunil are also married and have their own apartments in the City of Joy. Raj has two sons, Jagat and Rajat, both married. Jagat has one son, Vijay also has one son, and Sunil has a son and a daughter. All are well settled, and the irony of fate is that none of them want to join the business of their fathers.

We spent ten days with Raj and Neelu, and it was a period of pure bliss. Both were full of love and affection. They treated us like their parents, giving us utmost respect and looking after our comfort. Neelu has all the qualities of a good housewife. She is highly organized, resourceful, and adaptable. She multitasks effectively, juggling cooking, cleaning, and organizing household affairs. She prioritizes her family’s well-being, ensuring everyone is well-fed and taken care of.

Neelu is a cook par excellence who believes in the maxim that homemade food is the best for the family. She is totally against outside food and even makes snacks and sweets at home. Besides taking good care of her home, husband, and children, she also tutors higher school classes at home. She has a religious bent of mind and attends Satsangs as well as Amrit Vani to cleanse her mind and spirit. This gives Raj time to concentrate on his business. Raj is also a good householder who goes to the market every morning to buy fresh vegetables, fruits, and provisions needed in the house. Both husband and wife believe in eating a fresh, healthy diet.

Raj and Neelu arranged our visit to the homes of Vijay and Sunil. It was a happy, emotional reunion for the cousins. Anita and Renu, the wives of Vijay and Sunil, welcomed us with open arms. Neelu also escorted us to the famous New Market as well as some other shopping centers, where Uma purchased some Kantha work suits, bed sheets, and leather purses and bags.

Kolkata is not only known as the ‘City of Joy’ but is also the Cultural Capital of India. The city is known as the birthplace of modern Indian literature and Indian nationalism. 

Kolkata under British rule was always considered an important port in terms of trading under the EastIndia Company . In 1717, the Mughal Emperor Farrukhsiyar granted the East India Company freedom of trade in return for a yearly payment of 3,000 rupees.

In 2001, the city’s name was officially changed from Calcutta to Kolkata. Although Kolkata is not as economically dynamic as some of the other major Indian cities, it continues to be a cultural, artistic, literary, and intellectual centre.

Kolkata is very rich in traditions, art, and music. While walking the streets of Kolkata, you’ll see people of all age groups engaging in intellectual exchanges on politics, cricket, football, exhibitions, and just about everything under the sun. Kolkata has always been a major contributor to the world of literature and art. Once the capital of the British Empire, the city is also the hometown of Rabindranath Tagore and Mother Teresa. Because of this rich heritage, it is often considered the intellectual capital of the country.

Bengali luminaries like Rabindranath Tagore, Ishwar Chandra Vidyasagar, and Kazi Nazrul Islam played a significant role in shaping the thoughts and culture of many Indians. Other authors, such as Sarat Chandra Chattopadhyay, explored the depths of human psychology. Bankim Chandra Chattopadhyay is celebrated for writing Vande Mataram, which later became India’s first national song. And do we even need to elaborate on the unparalleled contributions of Tagore?

When it comes to music and dance, Rabindra Sangeet is an integral part of Kolkata’s cultural fabric. Children grow up learning this form of music, which helps them stay connected to their roots. The city is also a hub for Indian classical music and dance. Renowned musicians like Pandit Ravi Shankar and Ananda Shankar hailed from Kolkata. If you’re a fan of modern-day filmmaking and artistic cinema, this is the place for you—after all, it all started here. Filmmakers like Satyajit Ray and Ritwik Ghatak are the pride of Kolkata, and their artistic contributions have been lauded worldwide.

In 1955, Pather Panchali sparked a revolution in global cinema, earning widespread international acclaim. Beyond this, Bengal’s contribution to Indian cinema has been immense. Literature has long provided a foundation for screenplays, and one cannot forget Devdas, the iconic novel by Sarat Chandra Chattopadhyay, which has been adapted into films multiple times.

Kolkata is also a paradise for food lovers. Who can think of this city without mishti doi, rosogolla, sandesh, and fish? The best thing about Kolkata is its diverse culinary offerings—whether you have a sweet tooth or a love for spicy street food, the city has something for everyone. Street food gems include puchka, kochuri, and mughlai paratha. And how can we forget momos? Walk down Elgin Road, and you’ll find numerous outlets serving steaming hot momos with traditional soup.

Macher jhol (fish curry) is a staple in every Bengali household, and fish is an essential part of nearly every celebration. At a biye bari (wedding ceremony), you’ll likely be served a platter featuring aaloo bhaja (potato fries), beguni (batter-fried eggplant), mangsho (meat), chicken rolls, and desserts like sandesh. The city’s vibrant street food scene is also a must-explore.

Kolkata never fails to take your breath away. The city is home to numerous famous temples, which attract thousands of devotees daily. Among the most revered are Kalighat, a 200-year-old temple dedicated to Kali Ma, and Dakshineswar Kali Temple, built by Rani Rashmoni in 1855. Other significant sites include the Jain Temple, constructed in the late 1860s, and the ISKCON Krishna Temple.

Kolkata also boasts over 30 museums covering a variety of subjects. It is home to the Indian Museum, founded in 1814, whose archaeology section houses invaluable historical artifacts. Another architectural marvel is the Victoria Memorial, a stunning structure built in the Victorian style.

Sports are deeply ingrained in Kolkata’s culture. Football and cricket are more than just games—they are passions that run through the veins of the city. Kolkata is crazy about football, and the rivalry between Mohun Bagan and East Bengal is legendary. In fact, the price of fish and prawns fluctuates based on the performance of these two teams! Mohun Bagan’s victories are celebrated with prawns, while East Bengal fans relish hilsa in triumph.

Kolkata is home to one of the most renowned cricket stadiums in the world—Eden Gardens. It also houses Asia’s oldest golf club, the Royal Calcutta Golf Club, along with the Calcutta Turf Club and the Calcutta Race Course.

Transportation in Kolkata is diverse, ranging from the metro and iconic yellow taxis to boats ferrying people across the Hooghly River. Some parts of the city still feature trams and hand-pulled rickshaws, a nostalgic nod to its past. Public transport remains a popular choice due to its affordability and excellent connectivity.

Rabindra Sarobar, also known as Dhakuria Lake, is a peaceful retreat in the heart of Kolkata. Migratory birds visiting a lake that reflects sky and green surroundings during some seasons are just a few scenes you will observe while there; if interested don't forget to bring along a camera since it provides an opportunity to indulge nature landscape photography due its calmness.

The city is also full of surprises. Take, for instance, the fascinating story of Peshawari, a restaurant at ITC Sonar Bangla. Could you imagine a five-star establishment offering food at prices from 23 years ago? Every year, since its establishment on August 26, 2002, Peshawari continues this tradition, drawing eager customers who book tables months in advance. Hats off to Sonar Bangla! Only in the ‘City of Joy’—a city of traditions—could something like this happen.

Kolkata has always remained an affectionate and welcoming city. There’s a reason it is called the City of Joy. Compared to other metropolitan cities, the cost of living here is relatively low. The streets are always bustling, filled with people of all ages. Unlike other major cities, Kolkata presents a seamless blend of towering modern buildings and traditional houses, contemporary architecture and neoclassical designs. This balance showcases how deeply connected the people of Kolkata remain to their roots.

Therefore, it is no exaggeration that this beautiful city rightfully holds the title of the Cultural Capital of India. It has truly earned it.